Fennel and Apple Salad with Juniper.

Fennel and celery belong to the same family. But fennel has a subtle, slightly perfumy licorice flavour that elevates it. And if fennel isn't quite the staple that celery is in our vegetable crispers, it's far more ubiquitous these days in local grocery stores than it used to be.

One reason might be that word has spread of fennel's remarkable versatility: Slice it thinly into salads, crunchy and raw, paired with everything from citrus to arugula to apples to beets; or cut it into wedges, dip it in olive oil and have it as an appetizer. It lends itself to roasting and to braising in a small amount of broth or cooked over low heat with olive oil so it gets caramelized and tender; to sauteeing, gratineeing or even breading and frying. In summer, grill it over a barbecue. Fennel pairs well with fish - the stalks are stringy and inedible but impart flavour if laid under fish during grilling or barbecuing - and is a light yet savoury foil for roasted meats.

Fennel and Orange Salad

You'll want to trim or discard the tough outer layers of the fennel bulb and cut away any bruised areas.

Serves 3 to 4 as a side dish

1 large tart orange, peeled and quartered

2 fennel bulbs, quartered and thinly sliced

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

Cut each orange quarter into thin slices. Combine sliced fennel and orange with the olive oil, then salt and pepper to taste.

Fennel and Apple Salad with Juniper

A bracing after-dinner salad or fine accompaniment to grilled shrimp or smoked salmon.

Serves 2 to 4

1 good-sized fennel bulb (about 12 ounces, or 300 g)

1 crisp Granny Smith apple

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15 juniper berries

Trim fennel, keeping some of the top feathery fronds for garnish. Cut unpeeled apple into quarters and core. Cut fennel against the grain as thinly as you can, preferably on a mandoline. Then cut the apple into the thinnest possible slices. Toss fennel and apple with the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Working on a cutting board, crush the juniper berries with the side of a broad knife and then mince. Stir berries into the salad, toss, and let sit 5 or 10 minutes. Just before serving, garnish with the minced feathery fennel tops.

Roasted Fennel

Steam the fennel before roasting.

6 to 8 fennel bulbs, about 3 pounds (1.5 kg)

2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). Cut off fronds and stalks where the bulb ends. Trim root end, taking care to leave bulb intact. Quarter each bulb lengthwise, then steam over boiling salted water for 10 minutes. Transfer to a roasting pan and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Don't crowd the pan - fennel should be in a single layer - or it will steam, not brown. Roast uncovered in the upper third of the oven until tender and caramelized, 30 to 40 minutes. Season again with salt, perhaps sea salt and pepper. If serving at room temperature, allow fennel to cool completely before piling into a serving dish.